Captain – good name for a mod, right?
IJOY is pairing their new dual-18650 mod, the Captain PD1865, with their 5S RDTA (the kit is also available with the Captain tank, and the Wondervape RDA). The 5S has made a few sacrifices in size compared to the RDTA 5. At 24 mm across and 2.6 mL capacity, it’s a smaller beast that promises some gains in flavor. It comes with a gold-plated velocity style deck that looks like it will be interchangeable (no news on this as yet though).
In TC mode, the Captain PD1865 mod supports SS/Ti/Ni wire types and fires down to 0.05 ohm. In variable wattage, it fires from 5 – 225 W. The kit comes in three different color options (the 5S RDTA can be bought separately in seven different colors). Currently the kit is on pre-order, selling for under $75.
Let’s take a closer look at the IJOY Captain PD1865 kit and see what’s what.
Disclaimer: We received the IJOY Captain PD1865 Kit from Heavengifts for the purpose of this review.
IJOY Captain PD1865 Kit Gallery
IJOY Captain PD1865 Kit Specs and Features
- IJOY Captain PD1865 box mod
- IJOY 5S RDTA
- Extra tank glass
- User manual
- Warranty information
- Micro USB cable
- Extras: o-rings | 4 x extra cross grub screws | screwdriver | 2 x fused Clapton coils | cotton
IJOY Captain PD1865 box mod
- Dimensions: 84.4 mm x 44 mm x 30 mm
- 2x External 18650 Batteries (not included)
- Wattage Range: 5W to 225 W
- Temperature Control: Ni | Ti | SS | M1 | M2
- Temperature Control Range: 149° C – 316° C | 300° F – 600° F
- TCR function for M1 | M2 settings
- Resistance range: 0.05 – 3.0 ohm
- Display: OLED 0.96 inch
- Thread: 510 thread
- Micro USB charging port
- Firmware upgradeable
- Available colors: Black | Gun Metal | Rainbow
IJOY 5S RDTA
- Height: 35.5 mm | 42.5 mm (inc. drip tip)
- Diameter: 24 mm
- Capacity: 2.6 mL
- Gold-plated velocity style build deck
- Central top fill port
- Airflow channels: 6 mm x 3 mm
- Post holes: 2.5 mm x 2.5 mm
- ULTEM drip tip outer diameter: 18.5 mm
- ULTEM drip tip inner diameter: 10 mm
- Available colors: Stainless | Black | Rainbow | Gun Metal | White | Orange | Purple
My first impressions of the Captain PD1865 kit got off to a bad start. The mod comes with some slick black carbon fiber detailing, making for a soft tactile effect. Unfortunately, these insets were poorly applied to the surface of the mod, peeling off easily at the edges.
The mod’s firing button is large and clicky. It doesn’t protrude out of the surface of the mod, rather the mod itself dips inwards around the button, making it easy to distinguish. There’s no button rattle on the black sample we received. The top of the mod will fit attys up to 26 mm without overhang. A turn off for me is the four exposed torx screws visible up top.
The 0’96 inch OLED display is bright, and crams a lot of info into its real estate. The up/down buttons are situated directly beneath it, while the micro USB port lies just below them. You’ll be able to update the system firmware as well as charge the device via USB, if you so wish.
Internal charging of 18650 batteries won’t be for everyone, and if your batteries aren’t married, it can come with some risks. When my VTC5s were empty, I charged them in-device via USB. They took 4 hours to reach a full charge.
Even if the glue job’s not up to scratch, that carbon fiber does feel nice in the hand. It gives the mod a pleasing softness, similar to pleather.
Although this is a dual-18650 mod, the sides are quite rounded and it fits comfortably in the palm of my hand. A nice touch is that the mod is accessible for left and right handers. As a leftie, I can fire the mod with my thumb and still have a clear view of the screen. If you’re right handed, you’d probably fire with your forefinger. You then have the advantage that the atomizer will be facing you.
Feature Set and Menu Functionality
The Captain PD1865 comes with the regular features that you’d expect of a box mod:
- Variable wattage runs from 5 W – 225 W.
- In VW mode, you can choose from four different power settings: soft (20% lower than the set wattage), normal, high (30% higher), and user defined.
- The user-defined power setting allows you to define an output curve over a three second duration over six steps.
- Temperature control is available for the usual wire types: Ni / Ti / SS.
- Temperature control runs from 300° – 600° Fahrenheit, and round robins at both ends to Celsius, which ranges from 149° – 316°. Both Fahrenheit and Celsius move in 1° increments.
- There’s two TCR options for manual input, if you’re looking to tweak the settings or use another wire type.
- Puff counter and puff reset, in case you’re keeping track.
- Under settings, you can alter the screen timeout interval.
- Pressing up and down together displays your ohm resistance, although you can’t adjust it for TC performance.
To tweak settings in TC mode, pressing up allows you to toggle wattage, while pressing down takes you straight to temperature input. Pressing the fire button confirms whichever value you’ve input, then you can alter the other. It’s worth knowing that to raise temperature, you first have to press down to “unlock” that ability. While this makes tweaking temperature a bit long-winded, it’s better than having the wattage hidden away in the settings menu.
The menu interface displays all your vital stats, but comes across a little cluttered. I don’t need to be shown what power setting I’m using, at least not all the time.
Machining / Fit and Finish
The Captain PD1865 box mod is paired with the 5S RDTA in this kit.
The 5S breaks down into seven (yes, seven) separate parts: base, glass tank section, velocity-style floating gold-plated build deck, bottom airflow control ring, side airflow control ring, top cap, and ULTEM drip tip.
The build deck threads into the base and is held in place via the adjustable gold-plated 510 pin. All the other parts of the atomizer slot and snap into place with the help of single and double o-rings.
The bottom AFC (or tank sleeve) is held in place over the glass by a single o-ring, and can only slot into place over the grooves cut out of the build deck.
The side AFC connects to the sleeve and offers several different airflow options. These can be tweaked either by adjusting the side airflow in relation to the sleeve, or by twisting the top cap.
The drip tip is wide-bore and made of ULTEM. Other 810 drip tips will also fit the 5S. It stands 7 mm tall and is fairly thick, at 4.5 mm around.
IJOY describes the sleeve as a “push and lock” system, to protect the glass and make wicking easier. While the general quality seems good, the tolerances are a little bit loose, even more so when the RDTA is juiced up. I wouldn’t risk picking the kit up just from the top cap.
The 5S features a gold-plated, velocity style floating build deck. The post holes are 2.5 mm in diameter, and are fastened by cross head grub screws. The upper post holes are secured from above, while the lower ones screw in from the sides.
The juice fill port is situated at the center of the build deck. The idea being that you drip juice through this hole and it fills up the tank reservoir. There are two smaller holes on the deck to allow excess air to escape from the reservoir while you fill. However, because the build posts are raised 12 mm off the surface of the deck, bottles with smaller nozzles won’t reach. Most droppers should be fine, as are chubby gorilla style bottles. However, the viscosity of your e-liquid will affect how efficiently it flows down into the tank.
Ease of Build
The 5S RDTA is suited for dual coil builds only, in spite of the airflow options. The threading on the cross head grub screws is deep enough to get a good grip with the included screwdriver. The build deck is large enough to install more exotic coil types (the distance between post holes comes to 13 mm). Just make sure your coils are positioned directly above the airflow vents, and sit parallel with the side airflow inlets on the AFC.
It can be difficult to secure the coil leads from the sides on the bottom post holes. I’ve found that the screws need to be occasionally retightened, as my ohm resistance was jumpin’. Aside from that, the 5S RDTA is a simple, uncomplicated deck to build on.
To wick the RDTA, cut your cotton ends so that they hang just below the surface of the build deck. An added plus is that the deck can be unscrewed from the base, wicked, and then reinstalled with the wicks positioned perfectly. The wicking holes are 3 mm in diameter, and the detachable deck makes it easy to tweak your cotton.
The juice well is described as 2.6 mL capacity in the specs. With a syringe of e-liquid applied directly into the reservoir, I got about 2 mL of e-liquid into the tank. That’s not accounting for what your cotton will soak up, but I find myself refilling fairly often, especially when I used the included Clapton coils.
You can fill the tank up through the center hole on the build deck. But if that isn’t working for you, remove the sleeve. You can fit a syringe (just) between the build deck and the tank reservoir.
If you fill too quickly, e-liquid tends to pool on the build deck. If there’s too much, it will overflow into the airflow holes and leak out the sides of the AFC.
I’ve found I get best performance from the 5S by refilling the tank directly with a dropper bottle. The nozzle is long enough to reach the juice fill port without removing the top cap. With the 5S fully assembled, you can’t really drip directly onto the coils.
Airflow and Controller
Airflow on the 5S RDTA is fed from underneath and from the sides. It can be fully adjusted – you can tweak the AFC and top cap so that you only get bottom-fed airflow, side-only, or both. Even without any knurling, the separate parts move smoothly – maybe a little too smoothly.
Top Cap and Drip Tip
The top cap functions as an extension of the AFC, with two airflow slots, each 8 mm wide. It snaps onto the AFC and is held in place with the help of two o-rings. A thicker silicon o-ring holds the ULTEM drip tip in position.
The Captain PD1865 mod has a compact form factor, compared to other dual 18650 box mods. It’s shorter than both the Voopoo Drag and SMOK’s latest T-Priv mod, and almost as thin as the Drag.
Paired with the 5S RDTA makes for a sleek and (at least in black) understated look. But the overall look is let down by the poor quality carbon fiber insets.
I build on the 5S RDTA with the dual core fused Claptons that come included in the kit. They came to around 0.18 ohm. Vaping on the 5S at around 80 – 90 W, I get the best results with just the bottom airflow slots open.
I’ve been using a variety of 70/30 VG/PG e-liquids in the time I’ve used the 5S. Flavor is consistently good throughout. Not quite RDA-intense, but rich and dense, especially with less airflow hitting the coils. Vapor production is ok for this wattage, but for me the 5S is more of a flavor chasing RDTA than a cloud machine.
My first major irk with this RDTA is the method to fill it. Unless you’re using juice that comes in a dropper bottle, you will have problems. Even then, it’s not guaranteed to flow through easily. Anything higher than 70% VG is going to be problematic. The amount of leakage and seepage I’ve had with this RDTA spoils the gains I get in flavor from it. The two smaller holes on the build deck to help air escape out are easily blocked by the cotton wicking.
The click-and-lock system for the sleeve allows you to take the RDTA apart quickly. However, be prepared and have some paper towel handy. Any excess juice tends to seep out between the separate parts. Handling the RDTA leaves your hands sticky – and considering the limited capacity, you’ll be handling the 5S RDTA often. You can’t drip directly onto the coils easily, so pay attention to how much e-liquid you drip onto the deck.
The Captain PD1865 mod performs fine for devices in this price class. The functionality is standard, without any extra frills. Battery life is also decent, especially when paired with the 5S. Unfortunately, the cheap feel of the carbon fiber decals ruins the experience for me, although it doesn’t affect performance.
To test out TC mode, I made a single spaced coil 0.05 ohm build (the lowest resistance the PD1865 should be able to fire) from twisted 26 gauge Nickel on the Tsunami Pro 25 RDA. The mod wouldn’t fire at first, when the coil’s resistance was slightly lower. When I got the build to exactly 0.05 the mod fired, and temperature control kicked in as the cotton started to dry out. Trying to fire the mod with dried out wicks resulted in a rapid drop in power. The wick, when removed, showed tiny signs of darkening, but no burn-through.
- Good flavor on the 5S RDTA
- Loads of airflow options
- Mod offers accurate temperature control
- Ergonomic and good hand feel
- Build quality (except for the glue job on the carbon fiber)
- Doesn’t drink battery life
- Dual coil only
- Limited tank capacity
- Difficult and frustrating fill method (intended for dropper bottles)
- Can’t drip directly onto the coils
- Messy (have a tissue pack handy – seriously)
- Click’n’lock system makes unscrewing the RDTA from the mod difficult
What’s the advantage to using an RDTA? Ideally, you get the taste benefits of a dripper, with the added convenience of a tank reservoir. I’ve seen a bunch of RDTAs with problematic fill ports, and IJOY deserve some kudos for persisting with something different.
Unfortunately, this doesn’t work for me. Filling the tank is fiddly and the deck is prone to leakage through the bottom-fed airflow. The joints between the seven separate parts of the RDTA will seep e-liquid if the o-rings and inner parts aren’t dry (and they’re usually not). Flavor is good on the 5S but that’s not enough to make a go-to RDTA.
I’m pretty happy with the Captain PD1865 mod. Hopefully the glue job on the carbon fiber decals will be improved. TC mode is accurate, and although the feature set is limited, it’s no more limited than other mods in this price range. I’d keep it in rotation – but no, because glue job.
So, that’s a recommendation for the mod – with caveats – but I won’t be keeping the RDTA in rotation. Pair it with the Captain sub ohm tank, however, and you may be onto a winning combo.