The sixth atomizer in Innokin’s line of affordable sub ohm tanks is the new iSub-B. It promises big performance from low power, and at a very attractive price point. The iSub-B features their new Plex3D coils with micro-grooved mesh and wood pulp wicking, a unique prism colored glass for the tank, and a spring-loaded chimney that guards the coil against flooding during a refill. All for under $20! Granted, mesh coils and even wood pulp wicking is not new, but Innokin has a way of making quality tanks while putting their own spin on things.
This product was sent to me free of charge from Innokin for the purpose of this review.
Colors: stainless steel, gunmetal, blue, black
The iSub-B is a good-looking, well-machined tank. The prism colored glass of the straight tank is subtle and creative without being over-the-top. It stands 24 mm x 36 mm (minus the 510 tip), and it also comes with a bubble glass that extends the diameter to a smidgen over 27 mm. The only mesh coils right now for this tank are the 0.35-ohm heads, but Innokin includes two (and it’s compatible with the rest of the iSub coil line).
The iSub-B is made up of:
The iSub-B has a screw top-fill. The top cap is removed to fill around the chimney (with 4 mm of space), but it’s an old school way to fill the tank. The actual chimney structure is more novel. It features a spring-loaded system for protecting the coil from flooding during a fill.
The top-cap screws out of the top of the coil head, and then the outside spring-loaded chamber seals off the coil from the liquid. It works well, but it takes a full 2.5 turns to screw the cap on/off. And sometimes, when putting the cap back on, the pressing and turning can cause a misthreading if you’re not paying attention. I find it easier to install by pressing down on the top cap and turning the tank itself, then finishing up by turning the top cap.
The coil head is just like the other iSub tanks on the outside and provides the 510 threads and connection for the tank. To install or remove the coil (one comes pre-installed), you flip the tank upside down and hold the base of the chimney section (or the glass) and unscrew. The base of the coil head has flat edges that need to line up with the notches on the base of the chimney. The coil gets pushed in the O-ring lined chimney section and locks in place. This allows you to install or remove a coil with almost a full tank. But the coil head must be in its proper fitting or the tank won’t be sealed properly. It’s not difficult to eyeball the alignment, but I wish the base of the coil head had something more comfortable to grip than the hard edges of the coil-head assembly. All in all, though, that’s a minor gripe.
As seen in the video, the Plex3D coil head is not your typical mesh head. It has micro-grooves in the surface of the heating element. This is part of Innokin’s “flavor boost” technology where the coils themselves are designed to wick through capillary action; and due to increased surface area, there should be more flavor. In theory, I believe it helps because it does wick quickly. But the heads aren’t exactly stuffed with wicking, and they have four 3.75 mm x 5 mm wick holes (which is likely most responsible for the fast wicking).
The coils use wood pulp for the wick, which is a fibrous material often used to make paper (something “OK Google” told me). I imagine it’s similar to what Horizon Tech and Freemax have been using for a while now with their mesh coils, although I’ve never tried it. So wood pulp is not a new thing here, but it’s also not something that’s widely used. The big question is: how does it perform?
As far as flavor and vapor go, the iSub-B has a lot… And at low wattages too! I normally like to take sub ohm coil heads to their upper limits, and sometimes beyond the recommended range. But with the iSub-B coils, rated for 30-55 watts, I am getting dense vapor and damned near chewy flavor (don’t know how else to describe it) at the lower ranges. The break-in is short, only lasting about 0.5 mL to 1.0 mL before the flavor gets saturated.
The draw is mostly quiet unless taking a big fast hit. Even at it’s most open setting, it’s still somewhat of a restricted draw, but that doesn’t mean it’s close to MTL either. Remember, it has a 510 tip and similar internal chimney diameter. To me, it’s the perfect balance of openness and restrictiveness for a DL hit. My favorite setting is with the airflow closed off halfway. The vapor is basically unaffected at this setting, but the flavor becomes a tad warmer and more alive.
I test most sub ohm tanks these days with the same two liquids, Yami Vapor Taruto and Chibi Bar Fruitnola, which are 70 VG. Those juices have never tasted better (unless used in a rebuildable). There has been no spitting or flooding from the coils. The only issue I’ve had with the performance has been the occasional leaking while left sitting with the airflow open, and the jury is still out on how long the coil heads last.
My first coil head started tasting a little less than peak-flavor after just after a few refills. It wasn’t burning though. Just not as good as it had been. The flavor tasted a bit stressed out as if it had been pushed too hard — but I only had it at 39 watts. Then again, I was chain vaping it hard! This tank produces so much flavor that I may have gotten overzealous with my hits. My second coil has lasted longer (on about the 5th refill) and it’s still going. Even the first coil is still good enough to use, but it’s not as noteworthy as it was.
This is a highly recommended tank. It’s machined and designed nicely, and it vapes really well. Setting aside all the theories and marketing of micro-grooved mesh and wood pulp wicking, the simple fact is that it produces good flavor and vapor at low wattages.
More longer-term testing will need to happen before I can say how long the coils really last. But even if they’re not the longest-lasting coils ever for peak flavor, the five-pack of the 0.35-ohm Plex3D heads is priced under $10. That’s cost-effective no matter how you slice it. Even with a couple of minor issues I have with the tank, nothing so far has made me hesitate with the recommendation. I did get a little leaking a couple times, but as with most sub ohm tanks, you should close off the airflow when not in use.